VE Very Early     E Early     EM Early Midseason     M Midseason     ML Midseason Late     L Late     VL Very Late     R Reblooms     Amoena A bicolor with white standards and colored falls. A reverse amoena has white falls and a different color in its standards. Bicolor A lighter colored standard with falls of a different, deeper contrasting color. Bitone Two shades of the same color. Falls are usually darker. Blend A combination of two or more colors "blending" together. One is usually yellow. Neglecta A blue or violet bitone. Plicata Stitched margins of color on the rim of the petals. Usually having a white or yellow ground color. Self The same uniform color in both the standards and the falls. Variegata A bicolor with yellow or near yellow standards and deeper maroon, brown or purple falls.   Beard Thick bushy hairs on the upper part of each of the three lower petals (falls). Branch Lateral extension of the main bloom stem that produces additional flowers. Flare Fall having an outward horizontal curve. Falls Three downward curving lower petals (sepals) of the flower. Form Structure or position of the petals that determines a flower's overall shape. Horns Long pointed growths protruding upward from the ends of the beards. Haft The upper part of falls that connects to rest of flower; shoulders next to beards. Increase New fans growing from the side of the rhizome. Lace Very frilled or crimped serrations on the outer edges of the petals. Rhizome Thick bulb-like underground stem having roots and leaves. Ruffles Bouncy, wavy or rolling form applied to the petals. Signal A spot pattern of different color on the falls just below the beard. Spath Leaf-like covering over the base of the flower (ovary). Spoons Horned-like growths with small petaloids protruding from beards. Stalk Tall stiff stem that terminates in flowers. Stamen Small match-like protrusion just beneath stylearms; flower's male reproductive part producing powdery pollen. Standards Three upward arching petals of the flower. Stigma Lip-like growth near end of the stylearms; flower's female reproductive organ. Stylearms Small stiff segments in flower's center shielding the base of the falls; holds female reproductive organ (stigma). Substance Thickness of the petals; stiffness that determines durability of petal. Texture Surface sheen or finish of the petals (e. g.: velvety, satiny)     When to Plant For best results, Iris should be planted in July, August or September. It's imperative that the roots of newly planted Iris be well-established before the growing season ends. In areas with hot summers and mild winters, September or October planting may be preferred. Where to Plant Iris need at least a half day of sun. In extremely hot climates some shade is beneficial, but in most climates Iris do best in full sun. Be sure to provide your Iris good drainage, planting either on a slope or in raised beds. Soil Preparation Iris will thrive in most well-drained garden soils. Planting on a slope or in raised beds helps ensure good drainage. If your soil is heavy, coarse sand or humus may be added to improve drainage. Gypsum is an excellent soil conditioner that can improve most clay soils. The ideal pH is 6.8 (slightly acidic), but Iris are tolerant in this regard. To adjust the pH of your soil, lime may be added to acidic soils or sulfur to alkaline soils. It is always best to have your soil analyzed before taking corrective measures. Depth to Plant Iris should be planted so the tops of the rhizomes are exposed and the roots are spread out facing downward in the soil. In very light soils or in extremely hot climates, covering the rhizome with 1 inch of soil may be desirable. Firm the soil around each rhizome and then water to help settle the soil. A common mistake is to plant Iris too deeply. Distance Apart Iris are generally planted 12 to 24 inches apart. Close planting gives an immediate effect, but closely planted Iris will need to be thinned often. Plants spaced further apart will need less frequent thinning. Watering Newly set plants need moisture to help their root systems become established. Specific watering information depends on your climate and your soil, but keep in mind that deep watering at long intervals is better than more frequent shallow waterings. Once established, Iris normally don't need to be watered except in arid areas. Overwatering is a common error. Fertilization Specific fertilizer recommendations depend on your soil type, but bone meal, superphosphate and 6-10-10 are all effective. A light application in the early spring and a second light application about a month after bloom will reward you with good growth and bloom. Avoid using anything high in nitrogen, as nitrogen encourages rot problems. Thinning Old Clumps Iris need to be thinned or divided before they become overcrowded, generally every 3-4 years. If Iris are allowed to become too crowded the bloom will suffer, some varieties may crowd others out and disease problems may be aggravated. Old clumps may be thinned by removing the old divisions at the centers of the clumps and leaving new growth in the ground. Or, you may dig up the entire clump and remove and replant the large new rhizomes. General Garden Care Keep your Iris beds clean and free of weeds and debris, allowing the tops of the rhizomes to bask in the sun. Bloom stems should be cut off close to the ground after blooming. Healthy green leaves should be left undisturbed, but diseased or brown leaves should be removed.

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